Boyer Merusault “Ormeau” 2020

$75

Planted in 1924 by Vincent Boyer’s great grandmother Lucie, the “Ormeau” vineyard is named for the elm trees that once shared the clay-rich ground. This is classic, mouthfilling Meursault from vines that celebrate their centenary next year. The nose shows peaches and citrus, with pear and a faint nuttiness in the nose. All of Boyer’s wines are rich, elegant, and complex, but “Ormeau” is among the most classically Meursault in the lineup.

The 2020 is outstanding, from a vintage that has become widely hailed as a modern classic. There’s the prototypical Meursault nose – hazelnuts, white flowers, stones – but the mouth shows added concentration and superb energy. It’s still a traditional fleshy Meursault, but there’s and extra dose of concentration and tension. Burghound called it “elegant,” finding a “clean, lemony and agreeably dry finale.” William Kelley calls it “ample and fleshy, with lively acids and a saline finish.”

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