Desvignes Givry 1er “Clos du Vernoy” 2021

$42

The 2021 Red Burgundies have a reputation as inconsistent and tricky, but someone forgot to tell Gautier. His lineup of 2021 Givrys is outstanding top to bottom, with each cuvée perfectly balanced and crafted – ripe plummy fruit, gorgeous floral aromatics, and sleek, polished textures. William Kelley credits the improvements in Gautier’s wines to the use of manure for fertilizer, a more careful oak regime, lighter filtration, and longer elevage.

The Givry 1er cru Clos du Vernoy is a monopole of the domaine, and one boasting an average vine age over 60 years. There’s more intensity and seriousness here, a result of lower yields from the old vines. The fruit is darker too – cassis and plum over toasty earth. This is more ambitious, and undoubtedly succeeds in its mission – seriously impressive and another remarkable bargain.

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