Gautheron Chablis 1er “Fourneaux” 2019

$32

The Domaine Gautheron hews mostly to the style of classic Chablis. Winemaker Cyril Gautheron’s main focus is on showing his terroir clearly — when he uses barrels for elevage, he does so with a light touch. The result is wines that show clean, pure, Chardonnay fruit mixed with a stony minerality.

The Premier Cru “Fourneaux” is vat-raised; (the old-vine version sees a touch of oak). Jasper Morris MW praised the Fourneaux’s “bundle of energy” and its “clean but powerful and zesty bouquet.” We were particularly impressed by its finesse. It’s a drier cuvée — intensely stony and savory. If it shows a beat less exuberance than Vaucoupin, it makes up for it in polish.

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