Gautheron Chablis VV 2020

$29

Drawn from vines planted in the 1950s, the Chablis VV shows excellent dry material. The wine shows a soft savory spice that suggests grape skins, herbs, and dried flowers. There’s a lushness to the texture of the wine that somehow remains perfectly dry – the depth is tremendous and the finish is long and clean.

Neal Martin of Vinous found “a clean and fresh bouquet,” calling the palate “well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity,” and “quite a persistent finish,” concluding “this will do nicely.” In recent warm years Cyril has become a master of channeling ripeness into a tidy package — his wines (like all of Chablis) have become a bit broader, but no less Chablisien.

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