Last fall Ansonia pere et fils took the entire family — spouses, kids and grandkids — on a Tuscan adventure. While in the neighborhood, we couldn’t resist a side trip to Radda in Chianti to visit Piero Lanza and his wonderful vineyards nestled in the hills around the town. It is now about a quarter century since we first discovered Poggerino, and we can’t think of a producer with a better decades-long record of consistent, careful winemaking. Since we last visited in the mid-teens, Piero has added new vats, cement eggs and large format barrels, and the longer list of wines show the remarkable nuance and complexity that he coaxes from the Sangiovese grape. Antonio Galloni, the founder of Vinous and a renowned critic of Italy’s best wines, calls Poggerino’s wines “some of the purest expressions of the Sangiovese grape in Italy.” And Piero’s warm hospitality to our whole family leads us to urge clients to follow our path and pay a visit if you are ever in the area.

For a number of years, longtime Poggerino buyers had to do without Il Labirinto, Piero’s entry level Toscana Rosso, which was created to receive the juice of the youngest Sangiovese vines on the property. When the original vines that supplied the grapes for Labirinto reached the age of twenty, Piero understandably moved them into Chianti Classico production and suspended production of the cuvée. But there are once again enough new young vines to resurrect the Labirinto cuvée, and we are pleased to be able to offer it again. Labirinto is entirely vat raised, and the young vines bring a bright freshness and red cherry fruit to every glass. Galloni called Labirinto “a striking combination of red Sangiovese fruit buffered by bright acids and floral notes,” adding that “the purity of the flavors is compelling.”

The backbone of Poggerino’s production has always been the Chianti Classico — the “Annata” or “vintage” wine that is released two years after the harvest; and the Chianti Classico Riserva from the “Bugialla” vineyard, released a year later. We love both of these wines, and always stock plenty of each in our personal cellars. The Annata is always lithe and elegant, pairing well with a broad range of dishes. The Riserva tends to be more serious, offering dense, ripe fruit and built for longer aging. We opened our last bottle of the 2001 Bugialla just a few years ago, and found it alive, complex and compelling.
This year’s Annata is the 2023 vintage. As usual, Galloni is full of praise, finding that “dark red cherry, leather, lavender, spice and dried herbs all meld together in an open-knit, mid-weight wine that has so much to offer.” He went on to call it “pliant and inviting” and “an absolute delight.” The wine will make a beautiful match in cooler months for Spatchcocked Roast Chicken, then as summer comes around, as a partner for all sorts of meats on the grill.

Today’s winemakers have a wider array of vessels in which to age wine, from more shapes and sizes of barrels to clay amphoras and cement tanks. For a number of years now, Piero has made a new cuvée raised in cement eggs – hence the wordplay in the name Nuovo. Cement eggs have the virtue of self-stirring, as ambient temperature changes affect the wine in the eggs at different rates, promoting a natural circulation without the need for physical stirring. With no oak flavor mixed in, this wine has particularly pure fruit, and as one might expect at Poggerino, it is beautiful. The less porous cement makes a wine that evolves more slowly, and as Galloni awarded the 2021 vintage 93+ points, he opined that the wine would need a number of years to show its best. When Piero served us lunch during our visit, he brought out the 2021 vintage, which was showing dark red fruit with a touch of mint, spice, and licorice. Now five years after the vintage, it is showing beautifully, and some more evolution undoubtedly lies ahead. Fortunately at Poggerino there are some bottles left of the vintage, and we are pleased to be able to offer some here.

Finally, the 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva “Bugialla” is another resounding success, which Galloni called “gorgeous” and “superb.” He found that “black cherry, new leather, spice, menthol and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly.” While it is a powerful wine with the structure to stand up to the robust flavors of game or lamb, it also shows plenty of finesse. Give it some time in the glass and watch the many elements emerge across the palate.
POGGERINO
(case prices)
| Labirinto 2024 |
$235 |
| Chianti Classico “Annata” 2023 |
$275 |
| Chianti Classico “Nuovo” 21 |
$425 |
| Chianti Classico Riserva “Bugiala” 22 |
$450 |
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We expect these wines in April/May 2026
If you have any trouble submitting the new order form, you can always email us your order. Or give us a call with questions: 617-249-3657, or tom@ansoniawines.com
The deadline to place orders for this issue is: SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 15.
Questions? Need advice? Call us: (617) 249-3657.
OPTIONS FOR GETTING YOUR ORDERS
Pick-up in Massachusetts. We store our inventory at our new warehouse in Newton: 12 Hawthorn St, Newton MA 02458. Futures customers can pick up their orders here during Saturday open hours, or by appointment.
Pick-up near Philadelphia. We’re pleased to restart our PA pickup option. Wines ordered for PA pickup will be available December, depending on temperatures. Email us for more details.
Shipping elsewhere. In most states we can arrange for shipping at an additional cost that varies by location ($4.50 per bottle to the addresses west of Chicago; $3.50 per bottle east of Chicago). If shipping interests you, let us know the state and we will figure out if it can be done.