The Beaujolais is a large region with a wide range of styles. Our domaines here have been in two different camps of late – Perrachon, producing bold, ageworthy Pinot-like reds from old vine gamay; and Monnet, making a fresh, simpler, juicier style designed for early enjoyment. With Perrachon’s wines becoming more widely distributed, and Monnet nearing retirement, we set out this spring to see what else we could discover in this perpetually underrated region.
We’re pleased to report two terrific new finds, both part of an exciting new wave of young winemakers making their name in the region. Natural wine has a long history in the Beaujolais, indeed many cite the region as the modern movement’s birthplace in the 1970s. Both of our new vignerons practice biodynamic farming (see vineyard photos above) and low-intervention winemaking, limiting use of oak and sulfites.
We think Gamay lends itself well to biodynamic viticulture, where freshness and energy are an important part of the wine’s charm. All six wines from these new producers are organic, but are clean and carefully made, without the funky notes more common in our sources like Foulaquier, Tribouley, or Gross. We think anyone with a taste for crisp, balanced, beautiful red wine will find much to like.
DUPRE GOUJON
It doesn’t take an expert to notice that Guillaume Goujon and Sebastien Dupré are farming organically. Indeed you’d be forgiven for thinking their vineyards (see below) had been abandoned and left to mother nature. Their vines, located in the Côte de Brouilly, share the earth with an impressive array of herbs, flowers, grasses, and wildlife – all in the name of fostering biodiversity and soil health. In the cellar Dupré and Goujon have a similarly light touch – their cuvées are made with whole clusters, ambient yeasts, limited oak and almost no sulfites.
The resulting wines blew us away – their aromatics were as pure and delicate as we’ve ever found Beaujolais. Each cuvée has its own identity, but all share a remarkable purity of fruit. The texture is refreshing and thirst-quenching, but the underlying fruit is detailed and very fine. We’ve chosen three wines to start, and can’t wait for you to try them.
La Démarrante 2021 (“the starter”) is just that – an excellent entrée to the Dupré-Goujon lineup. Goujon described it as something you’d find in a “bar à vin,” a refreshing, juicy, Beaujolais embodying the region’s jubilant, joie de vivre spirit. The nose shows cherry fruits, sweet spices, and peony; the mouth is crisp and lively with nice concentration and a fine mineral finish. This is a Beaujolais in the most fun sense of the word – serve cool by itself on a warm September evening.
Côte de Brouilly 6.3.1 2020 comes from the domaine’s three distinct terroirs: 60% from a south facing plot, 30% from an east facing plot, and 10% from a granite-heavy plot. Goujon told us the first contributes richness, the second mineral freshness, and the third aromatics. The nose on this wine is terrific, darker and slightly more serious than the first – notes of ripe wild cherries and briary blackberry. The mouth is clean and lively but more substantial than Démarrante – there’s more lift and freshness than the smooth nose suggests. Bill Nanson found “lip-smacking complexity” and “lithe-muscled presentation,” concluding “this is excellent.” This is more serious than Démarrante, but no less enjoyable. Serve as you would a young Burgundy.
Dupré-Goujon’s most impressive wine is their “Heronde,” which shows the complexity possible in Gamay. Made from the vines just below the domaine (pictured above), the nose is deep and very floral – roses, hyacinth, gardenia – but the mouth remains balanced and fresh. There’s impressive finesse to the wine, without an ounce of heaviness or over-extraction. Its concentration is enough to sustain it for a few years of bottle aging, but its aromatics make it hard to avoid today. Nanson called it “vibrant” and “lovely,” writing “Bravo again…”
DUPRÉ-GOUJON
(case prices)
Démarrante 2021: $235
“6.3.1” 2020: $295
Héronde 2020: $350
FREDERIC BERNE
Frederic Berne lives 15 minutes northwest of Dupré-Goujon, along a narrow switchback road that’s not conducive to making up time if you’re late for your appointment. Like Dupré-Goujon, he’s young, friendly, and passionate about biodynamics, terroir, and thoughtful winemaking. (Indeed both winemakers are in the same local tasting circle.) He’s a bit better known than Dupré-Goujon, though his domaine is about the same size (~15 hectares), and it covers a wider range of appellations.
Berne’s vineyard style is similar to Dupré-Goujon as well – both share an aversion to chemical treatments, and appear to employ the same (evidently retired) lawnmowing company. In the cellar their approach is similar (all whole cluster), but Berne extracts his wines a bit more, giving them extra structure, but no less lift. These are slightly richer and fuller, and will likely work better with food. We think they’ll be real crowd pleasers come the fall, particularly at these prices.
Berne’s first wine is his 2020 Régnié (ray-neyay), from one of the ten Beaujolais Crus and the town best known for elegance and subtlety. Berne’s plot is on granite and clay, and he ages the 100% whole cluster wine for 12 months in 500L barrels. The nose is deep and dark with notes of violets and roses, and a pleasant earthiness to accompany the floral perfume. In the mouth the granite returns, cutting beautifully through the lush fruit. Bill Nanson called it “really super…excellent again!” We think this will drink beautifully on its own this fall.
Next, a 2020 Chiroubles. Readers familiar with the appellation take note: this is atypical in the best sense of the word. Chiroubles is known for being the lightest of the Crus, and indeed Berne’s cuvée carries the signature mineral zip of a classic Chiroubles. But in the mouth it’s unusually concentrated – in part due to the vintage (Berne’s yields were one half normal), and in part due to a southern exposition. The combination of high and low, together with a bit of barrel aging, produces a complete and layered wine we found simply delicious. Jasper Morris MW agreed, awarding 90 points and finding “just a touch of oak on the nose but with good complement of fruit beneath… this will be pretty.” Nanson too — “Properly structured but not oppressive. Simply a great wine!”
Finally, Berne produces a Morgon “Corcelette” that more than lives up to its reputation. The appellation is known for its bold, rich fruit character with intense, balancing mineralty. Berne’s plot has a notable amount of clay over the granite, and the wine is impressive in its depth and richness. The nose is classic beaujolais, peonies, graphite and roses; and the mouth is bold and masculine, with a dry serious fruit profile and both excellent length and perfect freshness. Bill Nanson found “super depth to this flavor…mouthwatering and engrossing. Excellent wine.” If you can keep your hands off this it may drink better at Thanksgiving 2023 (or 2025) than 2022, but nobody will turn down a glass in any of these years.
BERNE
(case prices)
Regnié 2020: $235
Chiroubles 2020: $235
Morgon 2020: $250