Following the disastrously miniscule yields of the 2021 vintage, vignerons up and down the Côte d’Or (and their bankers) held their collective breath as the 2022 growing season unfolded. They had plenty of reason to worry. Early on, low temperatures threatened severe losses from frost; thereafter, stretches of great heat and dry spells made it the hottest and driest vintage in Burgundy since 1947; and in the midst of it all there were dramatic deluges that threatened to swamp the grapes and the vines. But in the end, the catastrophes missed Burgundy. “Beautiful and bountiful,” writes Jasper Morris; “very good wines and plenty of them.” The collective Burgundian sigh of relief after harvest in 2022 was probably heard all the way to Paris.
Indeed, despite a roller coaster of peril, 2022 brought wines that William Kelley calls “succulent, suave and charming”, “offering excellence in both colors and in a wide variety of styles.” He found the 2022s “harmonious and charming, . . . reminiscent, in reds, of a hypothetical marriage of 2017’s easy charm with some of 2015’s depth and in whites, evoking a somewhat more giving, open version of the 2020 vintage.”
Roger Belland’s wines were our first opportunity to assess the 2022s in bottle, and tasting through the range in January brought smiles to our faces. They are indeed open and charming, and though they will offer good drinking from the get go, they are also likely to mature well. In short, it’s a vintage to stock up on, and you won’t go wrong wherever you choose to buy.
Belland’s base is in Santenay in the Côte de Beaune. Just below Santenay, at the southernmost tip of the Côte d’Or, lies the lesser-known town of Maranges, whose reds offer the best prices in Belland’s range. His Maranges premier cru “Fussiere” is excellent in 2022, with a very attractive texture. It has plenty of substance, with pleasantly ripe tannins and good dark fruit. The fruits are plum and cherry, with a youthful, friendly texture – bring this along to a summer picnic.
Though Santenay is near the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, a southerly twist in its orientation there makes for generous reds that tend often to resemble those of the Côte de Nuits. A perennial favorite of Ansonia buyers, Belland’s Santenay 1er cru “Beauregard” is delicious in this vintage. After a few minutes in the glass, its sunny ripe fruit begins to emerge. In the mouth it is particularly pleasant, fresh enough but not brisk, and round but not too mouth filling. The combination gives it an elegant feel, with ripe tannins providing support at the back end. This will pair easily with any meal that calls for red Burgundy.
Beauregard’s neighbor Santenay Gravieres 1er cru is often a bit more serious than Beauregard, with a character that needs a bit of time to emerge. On the day we tasted the 2022, the nose was open and expressive, with a delightful combination of Luxardo cherries and blueberry. The mouth showed a bit more density than Beauregard, and a touch of austerity on the long finish suggests a bright future for this wine. Today, Beauregard offers sweeter fruit and readier pleasure; as their evolution unfolds, Gravieres’ darker, denser fruit may carry it longer and higher.
Just across the border between Santenay and Chassagne-Montrachet lies the Belland family’s large premier cru monopole, a vineyard in Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru’s Morgeot sector called the Clos Pitois. The vineyard is planted half to red and half to white. Though it lies in sight of Gravieres and Beauregard, Clos Pitois rouge is every inch a wine of the Côte de Beaune, with a dense, tightly packed structure and exceedingly fine grained, very ripe tannins. Its dark, beautifully ripe fruit unfolds slowly in the glass, hinting at fine things to come as the wine evolves. We expect this wine to age beautifully, hitting its stride in four or five years, and continuing to mature for another five or ten.
Belland has just a single parcel in Volnay, but it is in Santenots, thought by some to be the town’s best premier cru vineyard. In Santenots the weight shifts from the Clos Pitois’s power to a more elegant, flowing style. Writers usually cite Pommard as a foil to Volnay’s elegance; but we think there’s a similar contrast here with the Clos Pitois. The 2022 Volnay Santenots can be expected to deliver a steady evolution of increasing complexity and subtle aromatics, and we have seen its remarkable bouquet develop in vintage after vintage, with notes of earth and sous-bois joining the fruit.
Belland also produces an impressive range of white wines, and the 2022s are universally successful. His white Santenay 1er cru also comes from the Beauregard vineyard. It sports a very attractive price tag for a wine that is in many respects a junior version of the Clos Pitois blanc. Dial back the intensity, depth, and persistence just a bit from the Clos Pitois, and you have the Beauregard premier cru blanc 2022. Particularly in 2022, we think most people tasting this blind would put it on the Chassagne side of the border – think opulent, golden richness. The wine will stand up to bold flavors in dishes calling for big white wine, such as butter-basted monkfish filets, grilled swordfish, or oven-roasted halibut.
Belland’s Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos Pitois blanc is, of course, the real deal. The Clos Pitois blanc is classic Chassagne: big wine that at its best offers weight without heaviness. In 2022 there is already a beautiful nose, a subtle blend of fruit and oak. In the mouth it is very concentrated and dense, with a near-Grand Cru level of intensity. It persists on the palate remarkably well. No one will refuse a second glass of this today, but this wine ages magnificently, and if you can keep your hands off a few bottles for a few years you’ll be glad you did.
If you are looking for a white of particular elegance, consider Belland’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Champs Gains 2022. Its contrast with Chassagne is as you might expect: a bit leaner and quieter in the early years, then hitting its stride with complexity and persistence building as it matures. It’s from up the slope, so the fruit has a bit more lemon and a bit more cut than the Chassagne, but in time it could be the perfect accompaniment for a Dover sole meunière or lightly sautéed sea scallops.