Chablis is at the forefront of Burgundy’s conflict with climate change. As the entire region warms, its northern outpost has begun to yield rounder, more full-bodied wine. This has led more and more Chablis producers to raise some wine in oak barrels, and it is now common to see wines there that bear a close resemblance to those of the Côte d’Or.
But the classic Chablis formulation is to raise wine with little or no oak, showcasing the clean, pure, Chardonnay fruit mixed with a stony minerality. Winemaker Cyril Gautheron is committed to this classic style, and his wines show little if any oak influence.
Today we’re excited to release a new premier cru of his for the first time: Chablis 1er cru “Fourneaux.”
Fourneaux is a premier cru vineyard near the hamlet of Fleys, home to the Gautheron domaine. This plot produces a mouthfilling, drier, more savory/herbal style of Chablis — a style another winemaker might be tempted to raise in oak. But Cyril maintains his commitment to Chablisienne purity, raising even this premier cru exclusively in stainless steel.
Like all of Cyril’s wines this shows laser-like focus and precision, and in 2019 he’s channeled the ripeness into a particularly neat package. Jasper Morris MW called it a “bundle of energy” and praised its “clean but powerful and zesty bouquet.” Look for notes of chalk, lime zest, savory herbs and grapeskin.
Consider decanting this, and make sure it’s not served too cold — there’s lots of complexity beneath the surface, and a bit of patience (in the glass or the cellar) will go a long way.
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Varoilles Bourgogne 2018
bottle price: $35
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES
