Pure and Precise: Sparkling Pinot Noir from Burgundy. $25

Microterroir.  Most wine buyers think Pinot Noir produces only red wine, whether light and elegant or rich and fruity. But in fact the juice of Pinot Noir grapes is clear. The color of red Pinot Noir comes from soaking the grape skins in the juice — press the juice off the skins and ferment it on its own, and you get a wine that’s much closer to a white.

In France this is called a Blanc de Noirs (white from black), and most often is sparkling. The Champenois often use uncolored Pinot Noir juice in their Champagnes, and today’s example from Burgundy borrows this idea. Made from a small plot of 100% Pinot Noir, the Maison Picamelot’s “Terroir de Chazot” is an exceptional and unusual example of terroir-based, single-varietal sparkling wine.


Bubbles.  Most crémant in Burgundy and Alsace is a blend of several varietals from different locations to create a harmonious collection of notes and flavors. For “Terroir de Chazot,” Picamelot decided to isolate a single grape from a single plot and bottle it unblended. The result is a finer, more intense and earthy sparkling wine, with notes of roasted apples and herbs. The bubbles are fine, and the finish is elegant and dry.

Sparkling wines provide the answer to dozens of food-pairing puzzles that would otherwise remain unsolved. Anything from asparagus to strong cheese to dessert will work nicely with this crémant. But our favorite is a triple-cream cows’ milk cheese such as Brillat Savarin or Delice de Bourgogne — these ultra-creamy spreads contrast beautifully with the fine bubbles and delicate freshness.


PIACMELOT Crémant Chazot NV
Ansonia Retail: $30
6+ bottle price : $25/bot

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