Value. Burgundies are not getting any cheaper. With limited supply and ever-increasing demand, good values are harder and harder to find. But one Burgundian town that continues to deliver far more than people expect is St-Aubin. And we’re not the only ones to notice.
Jancis Robinson wrote recently that “St-Aubin, once regarded as definitively inferior to the most famous white wine villages Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet, should now be regarded as virtually their equal. Many is the fine white from St-Aubin nowadays, but the prices have yet to catch up.”
The wines of St-Aubin have everything we look for in White Burgundy. Clear chardonnay fruit, good balance between minerality and richness, and the ability to gain complexity with age. Our source here is Domaine Gérard Thomas, who makes excellent wine with his two daughters from their 30 acres of vines.
Opulent. Thomas’s Bourgogne blanc is the house white at many of our readers’ homes. It’s inexpensive, refreshing, and pairs with a wide range of dishes. Their St-Aubin has everything we like about the Bourgogne, only more of it. There’s a noticeable jump in richness which, particularly in a ripe year like 2015, makes this drink like a much fancier wine.
The 2015 St-Aubin is immediately expressive in the nose, showing almonds, white flowers, and toast. The mouth is rich but lively — there’s a tense, citrus freshness balancing out 2015’s ripeness. Look for notes of baked lemons and honey, and a mouthfilling richness. This should be wonderful for another few years, but it’s awfully hard to put down today.
Thomas St-Aubin 2015
Ansonia Retail: $35
6+ bottle price : $29/bot
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES