Grüner Veltliner is generally simple and delicious — refreshing, uncomplicated wine that’s neither expensive nor serious. For those interested in that style, our excellent 2017 Grüner “Wieden” is a steal on this month’s 25% off shelf for under $15/bot. But today’s Grüner is different.
Both come from Salomon-Undhof, a winemaker that Austria’s preeminent wine guide calls a “figurehead of Austrian wine history.” Their estate dates to 1792, and their terraced vines overlooking the Danube have long been an excellent source.
We were skeptical at first about an atypical Grüner, but this wine quickly won us over.
The 2015 Wachtberg Gruner Veltliner Erste Lage is raised briefly in barrel, giving the wine a rounder, more complex mouthfeel. From the Wachtberg vineyard, this is a more concentrated expression of terroir, with a fine minerality and more intense flavors. Think Grüner Veltliner with a new suit on ready for an evening out.
The nose shows melon and grapefruit, with earthiness and pleasant dry apple notes in the mouth. Vinous’s David Schildknecht gave this 91 points, noting its “polished, expansive yet in no way heavy palate” and “lusciously lingering finish.” This is an overperforming, complex, delicious wine for an unusually good price.
Salomon-Undhof Gruner Veltliner “Wachtberg” 2015
bottle price : $25
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