“Impressively Rich” New 92-point Premier Cru White Burgundy

Most consider white Burgundy the finest expression of Chardonnay. But even within Burgundy there’s a wide range of styles and flavors; precise, crisp Chablis on one side of the spectrum, and lush, mouthfilling Meursault on the other.

Today’s wine is Chablis that wants to be Meursault. And while it’s typical of neither place, it’s also a delicious blend of both styles. Not for purists, perhaps, but delightful and well-balanced nonetheless. For the first time in many years we’ve been given a small allocation of Jean Collet’s Chablis 1er cru “Sêcher.”

Romain Collet is a talented young winemaker who has endured a recent series of difficult vintages with poise. Though their crop was down 75% in 2016, Collet managed to produce a terrific lineup.

The 2016 Sêcher combines a rich, mouthfilling ripeness with classic Chablis energy and freshness. There’s pear, gardenia, and white pepper in the nose, with toast and lemon joining in the mouth. Burghound awarded 90-92 points, calling it “impressively rich,” with “good vibrancy and minerality while delivering excellent length on the delicious, clean and saline finish.”

Tasted blind, you might guess this was a particularly energetic Meursault. It might not be classic, but it sure is tasty.

 

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Collet Chablis 1er cru “Sêcher” 2016
bottle price: $35

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