Gold in a Glass: Extraordinary “Beguiling” Old-Vine Meursault

With chilly, drizzly weather settling into Boston this week, our first suggestions for wine are usually red. Recently arrived reds from Goubert are approachable and affordable, and were a hit at yesterday’s depot tasting. But if your menu or your guests require something white, look no further than today’s cozy Meursault.

Though it has no Grand Cru, the wines of Meursault are some of the most sought after in the world. They inhabit the decadent, opulent end of the white Burgundy spectrum, drawing on clay-heavy soils to produce muscular, mouthfilling white wines. Today’s wine takes this theme one step further, drawing on 90+ year old vines for extra concentration and depth.

Planted in 1924 by Vincent Boyer’s great grandmother Lucie, the “Ormeau” vineyard is named for the elm trees that once shared the clay-rich ground. This is classic, mouthfilling Meursault – showing peaches and citrus, with pear and a faint nuttiness in the nose. All of Boyer’s wines are rich, elegant, and complex, but “Ormeau” is among the most classically Meursault in the lineup.

Burghound calls this “beguiling,” “attractive,” and “very Meursault.” We’ve set aside a few bottles of this to serve next week as our guests arrive for Christmas dinner. There’s no wrong time to drink Meursault, but a chilly winter’s evening seems particularly right.



Boyer-Martent Meursault “Ormeau” 2016
bottle price: $69

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