For most people French Sauvignon blanc means Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. But the grape also thrives in Bordeaux. In the Loire the grape is exuberant and fruit forward; Sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux isn’t unfriendly, just a bit less outgoing.
In Bordeaux, Sauvignon tends more towards grapefruit zest than pulp, showing less fruit and more skin. It’s a more dignified, less obvious take on Sauvignon than that of Sancerre — think Chablis rather than Chassagne. We love both. For a glass on its own, we might choose Sancerre; but when served with food, the better choice is often white Bordeaux.
One of our favorites in the white Bordeaux category is the Lafont-Menaut blanc. It’s pure Sauvignon raised in used oak barrels, which add a very subtle hint of muted spice and help round out the mouth. But it’s the lively fruit that drives this wine. Grapefruit is still the dominant note here, blended with notes of anise, grapeskin, honey, straw, and pear.
The 2017 Lafont-Menaut blanc arrived recently and it’s a perfect summertime glass of white. It’s lovely on its own, but food is a welcome companion for this wine. We like this with with moules marinieres, but it’s even sturdy enough to stand up to Moules Chorizo, a delicious dish from a few kilometers to the south over the Pyrenees.
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Lafont-Menaut Graves blanc 2017
bottle price: $22
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