New $25 Red Burgundy from 100-year-old Vines

Vignerons:   From meticulously cultivated old vines and careful use of oak, the Perrachon creates remarkably delicious and refined red Burgundies. The domaine is among the only Beaujolais producers reviewed (and praised) by both Josh Raynolds (Vinous) and Allen Meadows (Burghound). Perrachon’s reds are honest, complex, delicious red Burgundies; they just happen to be made from Gamay.

Appellation:   Beaujolais is best known for the Beaujolais Nouveau, a cheap insipid red rushed to market a month after harvest. Today’s wine is its polar opposite — the granite-heavy soils of Juliénas give structure and depth to its wines, resulting in intense, bold reds balancing black fruit and wonderful complexity.

Wine:   This pure Gamay is dense and inky, drawing from vines planted over a century ago. Perfectly extracted and carefully aged in oak barrels, this wine shows a beautifully dark, brooding nose of anise and blackberries. The tannins are juicy and silky but sturdy, meaning this should develop nicely for another few years.

Pairing:   Thinking down the road, this is an excellent candidate for Thanksgiving dinner. But between now and then, pair it with a steak in a cast iron pan and cold-oil frites. Close your eyes and you’ll be transported to a Parisian brasserie.

You might also like:   Our five other Beaujolais reds.


Perrachon Juliénas “Centenaires” 2017
bottle price: $25

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