Winston Churchill once said of Champagne, “in victory you deserve it, in defeat you need it.” Wherever the country lands this week, and whatever your reaction, we can assure you Champagne is a helpful accessory.
Winemaker Pascal Bardoux seems a bit out of place in Champagne, though his family has made wine there since 1684. Pascal is a master craftsman with a humble, contemplative demeanor. His tasting room is his cozy, unkempt office — a far cry from the glitzy showrooms and glossy brochures typical of the region. But Bardoux’s understatement belies the exceptional elegance and complexity of his wines.
His Brut Traditionnel has become a favorite among readers, and we’re excited for the arrival of our restock next month. But in the meantime, we recommend Bardoux’s 2013 vintage Champagne. It’s a bit more than the NV Brut, but at $75 it’s still a bargain next to the mass-market stuff.
Bardoux’s 2013 Millesimé is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier, and 10% Pinot Noir. The Guide Hachette loved its “finesse and freshness,” with an “elegant, long” finish, and notes of licorice and yellow fruit. We found a nose of brioche, pear, and dried roses, with a beautifully delicate mouthfeel and texture.
We’ll all be socializing a bit less this fall — treat yourself with an upgrade. Pair with a scaled-down Thanksgiving dinner, you won’t want to share this anyway.
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Bardoux Champagne Millesimé 2013
bottle price: $75
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES