It’s said you can judge a domaine by its simplest wine. Making great wine from a Grand Cru vineyard certainly takes talent, but the raw materials provide a considerable head start. As one vigneron put it to us once, “with the Grand Crus, we just get out of the way.”
But an exceptional regional level wine is a mark of true winemaker skill. And today’s Bourgogne blanc is as good as they come. Sofie Bohrmann’s fancier wines are extraordinary, and worth every penny. But pound for pound, her humble Bourgogne blanc might be her most impressive cuvée.
It’s a buck or two more than some standard Bourgogne blancs (and quite a bit less than those from the big names), but we think it’s a tremendous value, and couldn’t be more excited to release it today.
Domaine Bohrmann isn’t a typical source. Formed in 2002 with just 1.5 hectares of vines, they have no other US importers, zero critical reviews, and a (very) hard-to-reach winemaker. Sofie splits her time between Burgundy and her native Belgium — we’re not sure where she’s been hiding, or why no other American importers have found her. But her wines are simply delicious.
Today’s 2018 Bourgogne blanc comes from 40 year old vines, giving the wine an intense, distilled mouthfeel and excellent length. The nose is chalky, floral, and elegant, and calls to mind Meursault — indeed the vines are not far from the famous town. The mouth bursts with yellow fruit, tension, crème brûlée, sucrocité and depth.
In short, we think this drinks like a $50 white Burgundy from a far fancier appellation. For those in search of white Burgundy value, look no further.
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Bohrmann Bourgogne blanc 2018
bottle price: $35
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