Magnificent Meursault: Smooth, Golden, Old-Vine White Burgundy

Vincent Boyer’s 2018 “Narvaux” is a stunner.

Burgundians have made wine in Meursault since 1098. Over the last nine centuries the village has proudly earned its glowing reputation, and today produces among the most sought after wines in the world. Though it has no Grand Cru vineyards, Meursault’s wines are among the world’s most exquisite expressions of Chardonnay.

We began buying from Vincent Boyer more than a decade ago, and since then the international wine press has widely acclaimed him as a rising star. One of our favorites each year is his Meursault “Narvaux,” a village level white considered among Meursault’s finest. Particularly in (increasingly common) warm years, Narvaux’s upslope location gives it an advantage in the perennial hunt for balance.

Boyer’s vines in Narvaux are 70 years old, and channel the exceptional terroir with power and precision. Burghound named the 2018 Narvaux “Outstanding,” finding both “focused power and evident minerality.” He found notes of “hazelnut, brown butter… white orchard fruit.”

Narvaux is considered among Meursault’s best village-level plots — a splash of this on your palate will quickly explain why. The nose shows baked lemons, pineapple, flowers and stones. The mouth is typical Meursault, a perfect balance of generous, rich golden fruit and stony tension — weight and richness without heaviness.

Serve this just a bit below room temperature, with veal or chicken in a cream sauce, and you’ll see why they’re still making wine here nearly a thousand years later.

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Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Narvaux” 2018
bottle price: $72

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