The soils of Burgundy vary widely based on location, but in general are some blend of argile (clay) and calcaire (limestone). The proportion of these two elements goes a long way in determining the character of wine made in each town. And in Chambolle-Musigny, it’s all about the calcaire.
This higher mineral content gives the wines of Chambolle their signature silkiness, featuring elegance and lift more than muscle and power. Our source here is the Domaine Boursot, a winery dating back to the 1550s, but one that’s unmistakably on the upswing today. Jasper Morris MW writes that “the winemaking has been sharpened up by the current generation;” Neal Martin of Vinous sees “good potential” and “a promising future.”
Boursot’s outstanding crop of 2020s arrived last fall, and they’ve only gotten better – yields were down 25-50%, and the resulting wines are almost syrah-like in their intensity. Boursot’s village-level Chambolle is particularly impressive this year – inky and rich with a tremendous amount of flavor packed into every sip. Neal Martin of Vinous called it “bold and assertive,” an enticing foil to the silky Chambolle terroir.
Dark notes of violets and cassis pour from the nose on this wine. The mouth is concentrated and nearly opaque but also very precise, with cinnamon, wild cherries, and cassis all channeled into a sleek form. Enjoy this as a young wine from a decanter over the next year or two, or save it for another five and drink it as a mature masterpiece.
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Boursot Chambolle-Musigny 2020
bottle price: $82
