It took several years of working with Denis Basset before he’d sell us any of his white cuvée. The wine was so popular in Parisian restaurants that it was all spoken for – we’d sample it to start our tastings at his cellar, and then never see it again. Now we thirstily buy all of our small allocation each year – it’s the only wine of its kind in our portfolio, rounder and more tropical than white Burgundy; more tension than Condrieu; more softness than our Loire whites.
Basset’s white is a Roussanne-Marsanne blend (70/30), in the style of a classic northern Rhône white. The nose is soft and enveloping, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and green tea. The mouth is rich and round, but well balanced, showing nectarine and honey notes. There’s so much exotic fruit in the nose you almost expect this to be sweet, but the mouth finishes cool and soft and dry with terrific tension.
This is a perfect winter white wine, with bright citrus to match rich foods, but a cozy, waxy texture that makes it hard to put down. Begin your holiday dinner with a bottle of white Crozes, some salty triple cream cheese, and a crusty baguette.
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Saint-Clair Crozes-Hermitage blanc 2022
bottle price: $25
