We always love our visits with Pascal Bardoux, our philosopher-vigneron in Champagne. Each time we’re treated to a new tasting note that emerges from his giant hardcover French-English dictionary, including such gems as whortleberry and sloe berry. He’s a traditionalist in nearly everything, but his most recent innovation is an exciting one.
Champagne undergoes two fermentations – a first in tanks (like any other wine), and then a second in bottle under bottlecap. After the second fermentation finishes, the winemaker may choose to disgorge (remove yeast and insert a cork) promptly, or hold for longer “on the lees.” For his terrific new “Reserve” cuvée, Pascal leaves a batch of his house cuvée “Traditionnel” on the lees for an extra five years.
This extra hibernation transforms the wine into something really special, more akin to his vintage champagne than the non-vintage Traditionnel. “Reserve 2014” shows an exquisite array of chalk, fruit, earth and toast. The mouth is subtle and long, with a delicious, vinous finish. Treat this like a white wine – serve it with fresh fish or oysters or a lemon pasta. Some things can’t be rushed.
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Bardoux Champagne Brut “Reserve 2014” NV
bottle price: $75
