“Crisp, cool, classically Chablis.” $32

“Cyril Gautheron is a superb producer – Jasper Morris MW

Master of Wine Jasper Morris is an eloquent, experienced, extremely British wine writer, who doesn’t throw the word “superb” around lightly. And so while we at Ansonia have held this opinion of Cyril Gautheron for years, we took note when earlier this year he called him “a superb producer making wines in a crisp cool classically Chablis style, which is now really quite hard to achieve in these warmer seasons.”

Among the best wines from Gautheron’s exquisite lineup of 2022s is his village-level old-vine Chablis. The 2022 is a bundle of fleshy energy – everything you want from Chablis. The wood is nearly impossible to detect, adding depth, sophistication, and unusual refinement for its level. We found notes of oyster shells, lemon pulp, and chalk.

Morris gave this wine his 5-star distinction, awarded to less than 10% of the wines he tastes, and signifying “outstanding wine in its category.” He found old-vine “flesh apparent even on the nose” with “excellent tension behind” and “a searing chiseled white fruit.” We’d struggle to find a more impressive white Burgundy at this price point.

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Gautheron Chablis VV 2022
bottle price: $32

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