Bonnefond Côte Rôtie “Rochains” 17

The Rochains 2017 is seriously impressive wine. The tannins are particularly fine and silky — “enrobé,” as the French put it. And complexity abounds. The Syrah’s peppery notes mingle with a whole range of others: Raynolds of Vinous (93-95 points) praised the “exotically perfumed bouquet,” mentioning “potpourri, smoky minerals, . . . boysenberry, spicecake, and floral pastille.” These wines will have a long drinking window, probably at their very best between five and fifteen years after the harvest.