Cool, Earthy, Smooth: Old-Vine Loire Cab Franc. $22

Winemaker:   Fabien Demois is a young winemaker crafting subtle, pure, organic cuvées. He took over his family’s hundred-year-old domaine ten years ago, and has converted his vineyards to organic. His wines are humble, pure, well-made, and great values.

Appellation:   Chinon is at the heart of the central Loire Valley. Its reds from pure Cabernet Franc are often a mouthful of punchy tannins in their youth — NYT writer Eric Asimov calls Chinon “a red with attitude.” But after a few years they soften and gain earthy, secondary notes.

Wine:   We enjoy young Chinon, but today’s wine is an argument for patience. This 2015 old-vine Chinon has matured magnificently; the tannins gently underly a sweet patina or violets, berries, licorice, graphite, and earth. The palate plays high red berry notes alongside low inviting earthy ones in perfect harmony.

Pairing:   A springtime salad or a simple French braised chicken thighs.

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Demois Chinon VV 2015
bottle price: $22

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