Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er “Champonnet” 2018

$88

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru “Champonnet” is the best version of the wine we’ve had. The nose is sleek and delicious, the clear oak notes mingle with the dark blackcurrant fruit. But its pedigree really shines in the mouth: there’s plenty of substance and really good balance to boot. Look for notes of cassis, gingerbread and an enticing, suave texture. This Champonnet offers more finesse and elegance than the village level Meix, and for a premier cru it is surprisingly expressive right now.