When Burgundy’s leading critic singles you out as one of a “leading light” in the region, you could argue that you’d made it. But Gautier Desvignes – who in just eight short years has taken his humble family domaine from ordinary to outperforming – is not one to rest on his laurels. Each year we visit he has a new series of vineyard and cellar improvements to share and explain. In the words of Aaron Burr, “the man is non-stop.”
And it shows. The 2021 Red Burgundies have a reputation as inconsistent and tricky, but someone forgot to tell Gautier. His lineup of 2021 Givrys is outstanding top to bottom, with each cuvée perfectly balanced and crafted – ripe plummy fruit, gorgeous floral aromatics, and sleek, polished textures. They’re among the most successful wines we tasted from the vintage, including those from much fancier towns.
William Kelley credits the improvements in Gautier’s wines to the use of manure for fertilizer, a more careful oak regime, lighter filtration, and longer elevage. Wherever combination of variables is the one making the difference, the advances in quality are obvious. Gautier’s prices have yet to catch up, making his wines some of the best value red Burgundies we know.
We’re thrilled to see the success of this emerging superstar, even if it means his yearly cellar dispatch to us has changed from “our price list” to “your allocation.” All of Gautier’s 2021s will be featured in next Sunday’s July Futures release, but we’re singling out one today.
Desvignes premier cru “Grand Berge” vines lie just in back of the domaine, and the wine is particularly expressive this year. The nose shows raspberries and pepper with forest floor and violets. The mouth is sleek and medium weight, with layers of fruit neatly packed over a long, precise profile. We think it will drink well for 5+ years, but will be hard to put down by Christmas.
All of the Desvignes premier crus sold out in Futures last year, and this year’s allocation is even smaller – so we counsel haste to interested parties. You won’t regret it.
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Desvignes Givry 1er “Grand Berge” 2021
Ansonia Retail: $468
July Futures: $350/case
TO ORDER THIS WINE, EMAIL TOM
