Cyril Gautheron makes a wide range of wines from his family domaine in Chablis. They’re all from the same grape of course (Chardonnay), and all from the same town (Chablis). But the range from Petit Chablis up to Grand Cru covers an enormous range of terroir and expression. Each is carefully and beautifully crafted, leading Jasper Morris MW to call him “a superb producer.”
Among our favorites in 2023 was his Montmains Premier Cru – it’s an exceptional plot, with vines high on a southeast facing hill planted in the 1940s. The balance is just beautiful, with good roundness in the mouth, plenty of freshness at the same time, and extraordinary persistence on the palate.
The 80+ year age of these vines has something to do with the exceptional results, but vinification also plays a part. For a part of this wine Cyril has used a 3500 liter wooden cuve tronconique (a cone lopped off at the top to make a truncated cone). It delivers micro-oxygenation without much movement of the lees, retaining freshness and focus while adding depth. This is superb white Burgundy, available for half the cost of Meursault.
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Gautheron Chablis 1er Montmains VV 2023
bottle price: $52
FREE EAST COAST SHIPPING ON ANY 12 BOTTLES
