Gros Morey-Saint-Denis 2023

Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.

The Morey-St-Denis comes from a plot on the upper part of the slope in the vineyard called “En la Rue de Vergy,” named for the path to an ancient abbey just over the ridge of the Côte. Often the first village wine to hit its stride, the 2023 is elegant and fine in the mouth.