Gros Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru 2023

Pierre Gros has now produced more excellent wine than can be chalked up to beginner’s luck. His father Michel is never far away with ready counsel and advice, but this is Pierre’s ship now, and he’s steering it beautifully. Like many of his peer group Pierre has moved the domaine toward organics, and his wines are clean and pure – they sport the same polish as his fathers’ with perhaps a bit more concentration of fruit and slightly longer finishes.

The Nuits-Saint-Georges premier cru is often the sleeper among the domaine’s special-occasion wines. Produced in very small quantities from very old vines that yield much millerandage, the wines are intense and long-lived. The 2023 is dark and masculine with a dense, chewy mouth that will require cellaring.