Dahm Bernkasteler Bratenhofchen Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken 2008

Halbtrocken means half-dry, but we might call this “dreivierteltrocken” (three-quarter dry) — a small splash of residual sugar makes it start soft and finish dry. This nose is beautiful and delicate, showing bright apple and lime zest. The mouth begins soft and round, but finishes with a burst of beautiful mineral texture. To borrow a phrase from wine writer Eric Asimov, this is “thrillingly tense.” We think it makes beautiful aperitif.