Giroux Macon-Fuissé “Vers Chanes” 21

Sebastien took us to visit his Vers Chanes vines this spring – he explained that when the original Pouilly-Fuissé lines were drawn last century, the Vers Chanes plot had been forest. The since-cleared land, he believes, would rank today as Pouilly-Fuissé if the lines were redrawn. Lucky for us – today it remains a Macon-Fuissé, an overperforming terroir with a less famous name.

The wine itself is exquisite – unoaked Chardonnay with precise, linear focus. The nose calls to mind the golden lushness of Pouilly-Fuissé, but without the oak to obscure the gorgeous fruit. The mouth is lithe and precise, with chiseled minerality beneath the apple blossom and apricot notes.