Paget Indr et Loir 18

Nicolas excitedly told us he had changed the formula for Indr et Loire in 2018 — “style vin Jurassien,” he called it in his email. If we had any doubt what he meant, one whiff from the sample he sent cleared it up. This year’s Indr et Loire is Paget’s homage to the Jura — Chenin Blanc raised “sous voile,” under a “veil” of yeast. This style is most famously employed to make sherry in Jerez and Vin Jaune in the Jura.

We found Paget’s sous-voile wine fascinating and delicious. The nose has the classic oxidized, nutty character of a wine made with flor, but with subtle Chenin fruit. The wine is dry, but shows considerably more fruit and texture than the ultra-dry waxy Jura whites made from Savagnin. The mouth is long and full of tension — we found pears, white flowers, almonds, honey and hazelnuts.