Saint Clair Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” 2019

Denis’s wine gets better every year, and his just-arrived 2019 is a knockout. The name “Etincelle” (sparks) refers to his near-electrocution a decade ago, an accident that caused him to quit his job and pursue his dream of winemaking.

Basset’s 2019 Crozes-Hermitage “Etincelle” is at once dark and soaring. From a hot year, there’s very dense and intense fruit laid over a sinewy structure of blackberry jam and spice. But the mouthfeel is also balanced, vibrant, and delicious. A weeknight red with far more pluck than $22 usually gets you.