The Philosopher Vigneron. Pascal Bardoux is among the most contemplative winemakers we’ve met. Before our inaugural visit in June, Mr. Bardoux asked about the timing and contents of our lunch to understand the state of our palates. The meandering, thoughtful conversation that followed included long silences, dozens of questions, and detailed lexicological discussions about the precise flavors in the glass.
As it turns out, Bardoux’s wines are as exquisitely crafted as his sentences. Our first offer of Bardoux’s Champagne “Brut Traditionnel” from last month sold out in a day, and we’ve got more on its way to the states. But in the meantime we’re excited to release a delicious second wine from the domaine: Bardoux’s Champagne Millesimé 2007.
Chalky. Bardoux’s 2007 Champagne has everything the Traditionnel has and more. Increased time on the lees means added complexity and notes of créme brûlée, and the fruit is so pure and concentrated that, tasted blind, one might mistake it for a kir royale. The mouthfeel is dense and mineral, drawing from the region’s famous chalky soils (see photo). For anyone wondering why the Champenois so fiercely defend the uniqueness of their product and brand, a glass of this will clear it up.
At $52/bottle, this is less than many grower Champagnes, though perhaps not priced as an everyday wine. But with all the family gatherings and holiday parties this month, we’re sure there will be ample opportunity to break out a bottle of something special. Or consider it for a gift — chill the bottle before you give it, and you might even get to enjoy it too.
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BARDOUX Champagne Millesimé 2007
Ansonia Retail: $60
case, half-case: $52/bot
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AVAILABLE IN 6- AND 12- BOTTLE LOTS
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