We spent an enjoyable few hours on Nicolas Haeni’s charming backyard terrace yesterday. Haeni runs the Domaine Malmont, a tiny source in the Southern Rhône whose entire winemaking operation fits inside a small garage attached to his house. Under clear skies and a warm Provencal sun we tasted through Malmont’s recent cuvées.
Haeni’s operation may be small and relatively new, but his wines are exceptional. The Wine Spectator’s James Molesworth recently called them “particularly outstanding,” and our tasting today only confirmed our recent conclusions: Haeni is an unusual talent, and he’s getting better every year.
Nicolas farms grenache and syrah in an extraordinary polycultural environment in the hills east of Séguret. Wild herbs and grasses surround the organically-farmed vines, and the gently sloping terraced rows buzz with life. His wines explode with a natural energy and a diversity of flavors to match their origin.
We tasted 2016 and 2017s yesterday, but we’re pleased to have some of Nicolas’s excellent 2015s still in stock at the warehouse. The 2015 Séguret is unusually expressive grenache/syrah blend. The nose is dark and spiced, with notes of cassis and violets. The mouth is very rich and long, but balanced by a pleasant freshness and sturdy tannins — look for notes of lavender, cherry, black pepper, and raspberry jam.
Haeni’s reds are deep and inky, but always retain excellent balance and freshness. They’re the perfect wines for the transition from winter to spring.
Malmont Séguret 2015
Ansonia Retail: $35
3+ bottle price : $29/bot
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