“True Craftsmanship:” Superb New Chianti Classico Riserva

Perched on a charming Tuscan hillside, the Fattoria Poggerino is certainly one of the most attractive domaines in our portfolio. (If you’re ever in the area, we highly recommend a visit.) As it turns out, the wine is just as beautiful as the source. Poggerino’s careful organic viticulture results in wines of unusual purity, as they practice what Jancis Robinson calls “true craftsmanship.”

Poggerino’s finest wine is their Chianti Classico Riserva from the “Bugialla” vineyard. Like Poggerino’s other wines, it is pure, unblended Sangiovese. But the Riserva comes from their oldest vines — nearly 45 years old now — and they raise it carefully in oak before bottling. Poggerino holds it a full year in the bottle before releasing it to the public.

 

 

With its time in the bottle, Poggerino’s Riserva becomes a remarkably elegant Chianti — as complex and subtle as many Burgundies we know. The density from the old vines and the time in oak means this is often hard to approach in its youth. But the 2014 is juicy and bursting with perfectly ripened fruit. After an hour in a decanter (or another 3-4 years), you’ll wish you had more around.

The Riserva’s nose is dark in complexion and tenor, but also contains silky high notes of roses and minerals. We found lovely blackberry jam, cherries, and graphite in the nose, but it’s in the the mouth that this wine really comes alive. Look for a dynamic mouthfeel, with juicy “crunchy” notes of currants, licorice, and blueberries.

 

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Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva 2014

bottle price : $48

 

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