“Outstanding” 91-point Six-Year-Old Premier Cru Red Burgundy.

In our fast-paced and impatient world, cellaring wine has become rare. Not all wines are meant to age, and indeed the wine world’s style continues to shift toward early maturity. But for wine that is built to be cellared, the transformation by bottle aging is nothing short of magic.

Today we’re suggesting 2012 Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Millandes” from Jean-Louis Amiot — it’s proof that ageworthy wine doesn’t have to cost hundreds of dollars. Located about ten yards from the famous Grand Cru Clos de la Roche, Millandes is a premier cru that always punches above its weight, but that also needs a few years to reach its potential.

Take a fine premier cru from an excellent vintage and add six years of patience, and you’ve got something special.

This lot of 2012 Millandes comes with impeccable provenance — it just arrived last week from Morey-St-Denis, having spent the last six years in the cellar where it was bottled. When he tasted it back in 2015, Burghound gave 91 points and called it “outstanding” and “lovely,” finding it “supple and round but well detailed.”

We think he’d be even more enthusiastic now. Today it’s just magnificent — the nose is woodsy and perfumed, with cool cherry fruit and lovely notes of anise and cinnamon. The mouth is perfectly balanced, with reserved tannins underlying a round, elegant, mouthfilling palate showing notes of blackberry pie and autumn leaves.

Serve this with pan seared duck breasts and roasted potatoes. Some things are worth waiting for, and with this one the wait is already over.

 

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Amiot Morey-St-Denis 1er “Millandes” 2012
bottle price: $75

 

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