Velvety, Cozy Old-Vine Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

There’s no wine quite as cozy as Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The best Châteauneufs all contain a splash of southern sunlight, combining the region’s rugged, sunbaked earthiness with rich, mouthfilling fruit. With cold weather upon us on the east coast, Châteauneuf is as essential as a crackling fire or warm jacket.

Today’s wine comes from one of the appellation’s foremost producers. Jacqueline André tends her ancient 140-year-old vines with the care and attentiveness of a loving parent. The original organic and biodynamic source in Châteauneuf, André’s wines are a standard for elegance and clarity.

From a vintage dubbed one of the best in the last dozen years, the 2015s offer immediate enjoyment. The most successful 2015s were those that kept alcohol in check and retained some acidity — as it turns out, Jacqueline André is a master of balance. Though it’s deep, intense, and enormous, André’s 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape achieves it all without becoming flat or dry.

Look for notes of plum, licorice, raspberry jam, and tapenade in the nose — the mouth is dense and extremely long, with bold flavors of cherry jam and wood bolstered by rich, voluptuous tannins. We opened a bottle last night with Thomas Keller’s butter-basted skirt steaks, and the match was magnificent.



André Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
bottle price: $62

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