Fleshy and Vibrant: New, Overperforming Everyday White Burgundy

White Burgundy is among the food-friendliest wines around. It works at the high end – think a perfectly aged Meursault, open for an hour, with veal medallions in just the right amount cream, a hint of lemon, carefully sauteed mushrooms, a sprig of parsley… you get the idea.

But it answers the call for something uncomplicated and reliable — a Monday night pasta dish, or a hearty bowl of mussels. Gerard Thomas’s Bourgogne blanc has been our go-to white burgundy for nearly a decade now. It has become a “house white” for many of our readers, and has been for a number of well known restaurants in Boston and Philadelphia as well.

It doesn’t make Meursault promises — but it way over delivers for $6/glass.

The 2017 Bourgogne from Gérard Thomas has just arrived back in the states. All of Thomas’s 2017s are unusually good — a magical combination of fleshy texture and shimmering energy. At each classficiation level the wines drink above their weight.

The Bourgogne is always good with food, and the 2017 is no exception; but this year’s is particularly good on its own. The nose is soft and elegant, with hazelnut and wood notes melting into lemon and baked apple fruit. There’s plenty of acidity and plenty of body, and it’s more mouthfilling than most wine of its class.

We strongly recommend setting aside a night for a high-end white Burgundy — Thomas’s other 2017s are a good example. But for a busy weeknight when all you need is something balanced and crisp and refreshing, this is as good as Bourgogne blanc gets.



Thomas Bourgogne 2017
bottle price: $28

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