Even by Burgundy standards, the town of Morey-St-Denis is small. With only 110 hectares of vines (0.4 square miles), it less than a quarter the size of neighboring Gevrey-Chambertin. Neither as elegant as Chambolle, nor as masucline as Gevrey, Morey is perhaps the prototypical Burgundy — a melange of earth, fruit, wood, stones, forest and silk.
Jean-Louis Amiot is a fifth generation winemaker in Gevrey, and one with an outstanding collection of well-located vines. Amiot’s parcels are often immediately next to a famous vineyard, and provide truly exceptional terroir without an astronomical sticker price.
Today we’re suggesting two 2015s made from such vines: Aux Charmes 1er cru, a small dirt road away from the famous Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin; and Les Ruchots 1er cru, a few yards from the iconic Clos de Tart Grand Cru.
We tasted at the Domaine Amiot three times in the last three weeks, and it was a reminder of just how good their wines are. Their style has modernized a bit in the last few years, but they continue to make classic, elegant red Burgundies that express their terroir with clarity and grace.
Everyone made good wine in 2015, but careful winemakers like Amiot truly excelled. These should age beautifully for another 3-5 years, but with a decanter and a springtime Sunday afternoon they’re a delight today.
Amiot’s Morey-St-Denis 1er cru “Aux Charmes” is at the northern end of the appellation, a few feet from the Gevrey border and the Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin. As the name suggest, it’s charming — the nose is deep but expressive, with notes of raspberries, toast and wild cherries; the mouth is silky, mid-weight, and very elegant. Burghound awarded 91 points, calling it “supple and caressing”
Most consider “Les Ruchots” the finest Premier Cru in Morey-St-Denis, based on its location across from the Grand Cru Clos de Tart. Amiot’s Ruchots lives up to its billing — it’s more serious and mouthfilling than the Charmes. The nose shows a rich blend of spice, smoke, and dark berry fruits; the mouth is sturdy and mouthfilling with gorgeous texture and a clean, delicate finish. Burghound awarded 92 points, calling it “outstanding,” “seductive” and “suave.” (Note: Ruchots also available in magnums.)
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Amiot MSD 1er “Aux Charmes” 2015
bottle price: $75
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Amiot MSD 1er “Les Ruchots” 2015
bottle price: $86
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