The town of Morey-St-Denis exemplifies the small scale of Burgundian winemaking. Wedged between two more famous neighbors, this village of 680 people has a vineyard surface of under 4 tenths of a square mile. It’s delicate, delicious, classic red Burgundy — there just isn’t much of it to go around.
Michel Gros has a tiny parcel in Morey-St-Denis, from which he makes fewer than 1000 bottles annually. The vines are perched on the hill above the town, and the vineyard directly borders three Grand Crus: Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes-Mares.
We always love this cuvée, but in 2016 it shone brighter than usual. Burghound agreed, giving 91 points, calling it “textbook” Morey-St-Denis, and declaring it a “Top Value” wine for the vintage.
Clive Coates MW describes the wines of Morey as a cross between the silkiness of Chambolle-Musigny and the sturdiness of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gros’s Morey-St-Denis is closer to the Chambolle side, and shows an elegant mouthfeel that’s typical of his style. Its location 10 feet from Clos des Lambrays helps explain its unusual depth.
We found beautiful, dark blackberry fruit in this wine, with cool, ripe tannins. Morey-St-Denis’s signature mineral core is evident and delightful. Neal Martin, awarding 90 points, noted a “crunchy finish that is a joy,” and concluded, “this is on par with the 2015, and may even surpass it with age.”
Michel’s entire lineup of 2017s is in the current Futures issue (deadline Sunday), but this excellent 2016 is in stock today.
Gros Morey-St-Denis 2016
bottle price: $69
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