Crisp, Autumn White Burgundy under $30

Burgundy is where Chardonnay finds its finest expression. In cold climates, the grape can be acidic and thin; in hot climates, it runs the risk of high alcohol and over extraction. But in Burgundy, Chardonnay has the potential to strike its most elegant balance between soft, mouthfilling fruit, and crisp, refreshing acidity.

Winemaker Vincent Ravaut deftly walks this balance between fullness and crispness in his white wines. The Ravaut family’s white Burgundies include some of the best we know, including an extraordinary, age-worthy Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne. But today’s offer is for their simplest — a Bourgogne blanc that combines the golden texture of elegant Chardonnay with a vibrant line of freshness.

The Ravaut Family is a low-profile domaine in an often-forgotten town. They still sell a majority of their wine to loyal customers who visit their front door, and during our tastings their cellars are often crowded with visitors from Paris and elsewhere in France. The Ravauts fly mostly below the radar of the international wine press, and we feel lucky to have found them.

From France’s warmest vintage since 2003, the 2018 Ravaut Bourgogne Blanc offers smooth and ripe – an effortlessly drinkable glass of wine. The nose is expressive and attractive, showing pear and coconut, with a hint of lemon peel. The mouth is silky but lively, with notes of almond and toast balanced by green apple freshness. There’s more chalky length than you’d expect from a wine of this level.

This is a perfect house white Burgundy — lively and energetic, but full of rich smoothed fruit to coat the palate in style.

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Ravaut Bourgogne blanc 2018
bottle price: $28

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