St-Aubin may not be the secret source for white Burgundy it once was, but it’s not because of the quality. Soaring prices for Burgundy from its famous neighboring towns of Puligny, Chassagne, and Meursault mean that the spillover demand have nudged prices for St-Aubin well. But the quality has more than kept pace, and despite the demise of its anonymity, it’s still a source for exceptional value.
Most of the vineyards in St-Aubin are rockier and at a higher elevation than those in Meursault, Chassagne and Puligny. In an ever-warming climate this gives its winemakers an advantage in the perennial race to find freshness. Our source here, the Domaine Gérard Thomas, has performed magnificently over the past few sunny vintages — their wines are always fresh, clean, and full of energy.
We’ve already written about Thomas’s terrific 2019 Bourgogne blanc, an excellent everyday value in white Burgundy. Today we’re featuring their 2019 village-level St-Aubin, a considerable upgrade from the Bourgogne and a real bargain under $40. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found a “lovely dusty layer over ripe citrus,” and called it “generous and creamy.”
Today the wine is just gorgeous, bursting with lush concentration normally only found in a premier cru. The nose shows hazelnut, sweet lemon fruit, and smooth toasty wood. The mouth is fleshy and full, with smooth fruit and excellent balancing tension. Serve with roast chicken stuffed with lemon, garlic, and thyme.
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Thomas St-Aubin 2019
bottle price: $38
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