Thrilling White Burgundy from a Hidden Valley

Close your eyes and it’s a village-level Meursault

Last week we wrote about Michel and Estelle Prunier, a father-daughter winemaking team in the heart of Burgundy. Tucked away in a valley off to the west of the Côte d’Or, their hometown Auxey-Duresses is often passed over for famous nearby names such as Meursault and Volnay. But hot summers have turned these towns on the margins of ripeness into sources for real value.

Prunier’s Auxey rouge we wrote about last week is delightful and traditional — a midweight, refreshing Pinot Noir with real character. Today we’re featuring their Auxey-Duresses blanc, an overperforming, classy white Burgundy that’s floral, accessible, and delicious.

Hide the label, and you’d guess a village-level Meursault.

Prunier’s Auxey blanc is unusually vibrant in 2018, a particularly impressive feat given the hot summer. The nose shows the classic white flowers and lychee of nearby Meursault, with just a hint of wood (only 10% new oak) and a hint of chalky minerality.

In the mouth this wine bursts with richness and tension. There’s excellent sucrocité (the flavor and texture of sugar, but without the sweetness), followed by a blast of freshness. It shows excellent length, particularly for its level.

It’s just about impossible to find Meursault under $50 these days. While this doesn’t carry quite the same complexity and balance as its famous neighbor, we think it’s an excellent value at $45. Serve with a creamy mushroom risotto.


Prunier Auxey-Duresses blanc 2018
bottle price: $45

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