Bold, Intense, Mouthfilling New $24 Gamay: Beaujolais Reborn

Perrachon’s muscular Moulin-a-Vent redefines what’s possible from Gamay.

Our sources in the Beaujolais represent two sides of the stylistic spectrum. Jean-Marc Monnet makes unoaked, classic, bursting Gamay with loads of fruit and great freshness. Laurent Perrachon, makes serious, ageworth wine to rival the Pinots of Burgundy further north.

Today we’re suggesting Perrachon’s 2018 Moulin-a-Vent “Burdelines,” a gamay that’s as dense and bold as any Beaujolais we’ve tasted. The elegance and refinement call to mind red wines from Chassagne and Santenay up north, but the richness and texture resemble a Northern Rhône Syrah from further south. The combination is delicious, remarkably affordable wine.

A generation ago the words “refined” and “Beaujolais” were rarely found in the same sentence, but it’s a good word to describe today’s wine. Perrachon keeps this wine in oak for a bit longer to help it knit together, and the extra few months of rest works wonders. There’s a smoothness and elegance that’s unusual for Gamay. The oak adds a faint note of toast, but more serves to soften the edges and round the palate.

With an half-hour in a carafe, this wine will happily accompany a hearty autumn meal and a rowdy group of friends. Look for anise, cherry, black pepper, and stones on the nose, with a dense, chewy mouthfeel and notes of briary cassis and black raspberry. This isn’t a Beaujolais you’ll forget about soon — twice the price of the Nouveau, but it’s easily ten times the wine.


Perrachon Moulin-a-Vent “Burdelines” 2018
bottle price: $24

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