Wine writer Rajat Parr describes St. Aubin as the “insider’s white Burgundy.” Wedged in a valley between Chassagne and Puligny, this town produces white Burgundy with hints of Montrachet’s golden richness, but a less stratospheric price tag.
At the western edge of the St. Aubin appellation lies a plot named “Murgers des Dents de Chiens.” Perched just up the hill from Montrachet itself, this St. Aubin 1er cru is a remarkable value. It’s everything that white Burgundy should be – rich, refreshing, complex, and elegant.
Gerard Thomas’s 1er cru St-Aubin is exquisite wine — consistently excellent year in and year out. It’s polished and modern, and drinks like a far fancier bottle. St-Aubin is hardly the secret it once was, but it still provides nearly unparalleled white Burgundy value.
The 2020 is sleek, sophisticated, and delicious. Winemaker Isabel Humbert has channeled the extra weight from the warm summer into a powerful, mouthfilling wine, which nonetheless retains its vibrancy. The oak is perfectly integrated into the wine, with notes of yellow fruits, pears, and spice. Jancis Robinson’s reviewer found “a lovely combination of freshness, ripe fruit, and lingering stony notes.”
White Burgundy isn’t getting any cheaper, but St-Aubin continues to get better.
Thomas St-Aubin 1er
“Murgers des Dents de Chien” 2020
bottle price: $49
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