Each fall, as we compile the lineup for our October Futures, we search for something other than Michel Gros’s Bourgogne rouge to offer as our early preview. And every year we come up short – for value, price point, and availability, it’s just too hard to beat. So last year, instead of a replacement, we found it some company.
If Gros is at the top of Ansonia’s list for red Burgundy, Vincent Boyer is at the top for white. Both vignerons are producing tremendous wines these days, and both have turned in terrific efforts in 2020. Gros’s and Boyer’s full 2020 lineups will both be included in our October Futures out next week, but we’ve decided to focus on both of their excellent Bourgognes today.
These are as good as entry level Burgundies get. And while there’s not much that costs the same as it did a year ago, thanks to a surging USD these are both holding steady at $295/case Futures. First come, first served – if there’s any left next Sunday we’ll include them in October Futures.
BOYER-MARTENOT BOURGOGNE COTE D’OR 2020
In the past few years Vincent Boyer has extended his élévage (pre-bottling period) to almost 24 months for all of his wines, and together with his conversion to organic viticulture, the move has improved an already impressive lineup. His magnificent Meursualts deserve every word of their considerable critical praise, but his regional wines are just as impressive for their level.
The 2020 Bourgogne blanc is excellent – an example of grapes from humble terroir in the hands of a great winemaker. The nose shows Boyer’s signature blend of golden fruit and focused minerals. The mouth is rich and smooth, with terrific concentration for its level. Burghound awarded it his “Outstanding” distinction, finding a “blend of pear, apple, and pretty floral whips,” with a “rich and solidly dense,” concluding “very good for its level.”
MICHEL GROS BOURGOGNE COTE D’OR 2020
Michel now works with his son Pierre, and the team has already produced a handful of truly excellent vintages. The 2020s chez Gros are remarkably dense and concentrated across the board (yields were 40% below normal), but manage to retain terrific balance and energy. The wine might look like Syrah in the glass, but it’s unmistakably Burgundian in the mouth.
The 2020 Bourgogne rouge is delicious, and far more intense than usual. The nose is dark and polished, with notes of violets, cassis and cherries. The mouth has an abundance of both density and freshness, making it delicious and easy to enjoy young. Burghound also awarded it his “Outstanding” distinction, finding “ripe plum, dark currant, and a whiff of pinot spice, with “fine mid-palate density” and “very good depth and persistence,” concluding “fine quality.”