Dry, Delicious New 93-point Chablis 1er cru. $38

Romain Collet’s unoaked premier cru is pure and brilliant.

In the dozen years since he took over his family’s domaine, Romain Collet has elevated its reputation as fast as any new generation we’ve witnessed. We’ve noticed it ourselves, but we’re not alone — writers from Vinous, Burghound and William Kelley have noted a “higher level of refinement” and a “significant upsurge in quality.” Jasper Morris MW writes that Romain Collet “is moving towards joining the pantheon” in Chablis.

Romain ferments each of his premier crus in some combination of stainless steel, oak barrel, and amphora. Some cuvées benefit from the depth and roundness added from barrels, but for today’s cuvée, the recipe is simple: no oak at all.

Collet’s Chablis 1er cru Montmains is Chardonnay in its purest form.

Prices around Burgundy continue to skyrocket, but the “Chablis discount” remains in effect, and the region remains one of the best sources of value in all of France. In most years, Montmains is a friendly, delicious introduction to Collet’s premier crus, but in 2020 it’s particularly nice. Master of Wine Jasper Morris agreed, awarding 93 points, finding it “Quite floral, plus white fruit,” noting that it “starts well and kicks on to the end of the palate, some fresh apples, a little citrus, and persistent.”

Open at our warehouse tasting on Saturday this was a hit – lovely, floral, very expressive, and hard to put down. Look for honeysuckle, oyster shells, dried herbs and earth. This makes a lovely glass on its own, but we think it’ll show best with something from the sea: oysters, scallops, or sashimi.


Collet Chablis 1er “Montmains” 2020
bottle price: $38

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