“Enveloping,” Smooth, Golden 2020 White Burgundy under $40

Nicolas Maillet’s Pouilly-Fuissé is back.

If Nicolas Maillet were to sum up his winemaking philosophy, it’d go something like this: let the grapes speak for themselves. Firmly committed to organic viticulture, and always a light tough in the cellar, Maillet coaxes rather than crafts his wines from each plot and vintage. If the fermentation needs a year to finish (a not infrequent occurrence chez Maillet), then he gives it a year.

As such, our tastings with him are always fascinating – each wine has its own distinct identity. William Kelley describes Maillet’s style as “elegantly textural and enveloping… pure and precise, with so much immediate charm.” As it’s generally a mistake to try to improve on a good British author, we’ll only add that Maillet’s wines are a frequent dining companion at our house, and we know they’ll be a welcome guest at yours.

Maillet’s excellent Macon-Verzé is always among the best sellers in our portfolio – pure, shimmering unoaked white Burgundy. Today we’re suggesting his Pouilly-Fuissé, a clear step up in complexity and class. Maillet raises some of this cuvée in older oak barrels, and while there’s no hint of wood, the added depth matches the terroirs intensity beautifully.

The nose is beautiful and very expressive, with golden yellow apple, mandarin orange, white flowers, and chalk. The mouth is expansive and lush but beautifully channeled, and finishes stony and clean. With layers of white fruit and white flowers, it’s more serious than the Macon-Verzé, but not an ounce less charming.


Maillet Pouilly-Fuissé 2020
bottle price: $39

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