It’s hard to find anything wrong with 2020 Burgundies. In both white and red, the wines are terrifically concentrated and yet possess vibrant acidity and beautiful balance. They’re predicted to age beautifully, but it’s hard to imagine many will last long in the cellar if they taste like this. The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley puts it “among the very best in the last two decades” for white Burgundies.
If there’s one fault in the vintage it’s the size of the crop. They’re awfully hard to find, and often pricey when you can. All of which makes Vincent Boyer’s Bourgogne blanc at $32 a striking bargain, and one we’re glad to be (for Burgundy) well stocked in. This is everything you want in an everyday white Burgundy, from a simply outstanding vintage.
In the past few years Vincent Boyer has extended his élévage (pre-bottling period) to almost 24 months for all of his wines, and together with his conversion to organic viticulture, the move has improved an already impressive lineup. His magnificent Meursualts deserve every word of their considerable critical praise, but his regional wines are just as impressive for their level.
The 2020 Bourgogne blanc is excellent – an example of grapes from humble terroir in the hands of a great winemaker. The nose shows Boyer’s signature blend of golden fruit and focused minerals. The mouth is rich and smooth, with terrific concentration for its level. Burghound awarded it his “Outstanding” distinction, finding a “blend of pear, apple, and pretty floral whips,” with a “rich and solidly dense,” concluding “very good for its level.”
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Boyer-Martenot Bourgogne blanc 2020
bottle price: $36